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The Atlanta Journal-Constitution: 10/7/04 ]

BEST BETS : Our Top 50

WHEN IT COMES TO SELECTING Atlanta's Top 50 restaurants, two mouths are definitely better than one. Both Meridith Ford and John Kessler have revisited many of these places; the initials following the restaurant names indicate who made the most revisions to the review.

RATHBUN'S (MF)

Inman ParkThree stars

112 Krog St. 404-524-8280.

Kevin Rathbun's first foray into restaurant ownership comes up a winner. His new American menu exemplifies what's fun and comfortable about modern American cuisine: it's sophisticated, but never fussy, and loaded with influences from the Southeast, the Southwest and his native heartland. Dishes like sea scallop Benedict over country ham grits put his love of smoky and salty foods on the menu map. After one bite, I wanted to be bathed in the grits. Short-smoked salmon rests ever so prettily on a crunchy tostada, with a creamy habanero sauce there to pack a hard flavor punch. Don't miss desserts: pastry chef Kirk Parks' creamy, dreamy banana-peanut butter-cream pie has already become a city legend. 5:30-11 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays. $$-$$$.