Back

 

Chile Pepper Magazine

December, 2004

 

Grand Dining For the Holidays

Where to go this winter for good cheer and good eats...by John Mariani

 

No matter how the year has gone - winning and losing, getting and trading, earning and paying - one's trials and tribulations seem to evoporate with the onset of the December holidays and the promise of renewal.  The thought of celebrating with one's family and colleagues means the place has something special: somewhere that evokes a feeling of goodness and delight, so that, while finishing a meal in such a restaurant, hope springs eternal for the year to come.  Add some spice, and the whole world looks better.  Here, then, are some very special dining spots to celebrate the winter holidays.

Rathbun's: Since opening earlier this year, Rathbun's has become the place to see and be seen.  The gargantuan, former warehouse has now been made to look like a hip hangout in TriBeCa. 

Kevin Rathbun is a big guy who loves big flavors - evident in his braised brisket in a smoked tomato jus with poblano quesadillas or the hand-cut French fries with bleu cheese dipping fondue. There's a hefty portion of Maine lobster and roasted green chile tacos with cascabel cream and tomato pico de gallo, or his sea scallops on country-ham-studded grits with a spiced hollandaise.  The velvety corn soup is laced with pasilla chiles, and Meyer lemons provide a real zing to the tarragon-scented roasted chicken with creamy mashed potatoes.

The space itself is as fit for a celebratory holiday dinner as for a New Year's bash, but call early to reserve a table.