Gorgeous grits at Rathbun's

Every now and then it just hits you: you gotta have grits. Gooey grits that are not too runny, not too stiff. And the counter at Waffle House just isn't gonna do it for you this time. You need something sophisticated, but down-home. When this happens to me, I settle into the bar at Rathbun's and order chef-owner Kevin Rathbun's best dish -- scallop Benedict over country ham grits with a slightly spicy, slightly sweet hollandaise. It's just the right marriage of sweet and salty, with a smokiness so subtle, you'll miss it if you blink.